The seaside resort of Durres was an important city in Roman times on the Via Egnatia, the trade route from Rome to Constantinople. Few monuments have survived from that period, and most interesting of them is the Roman amphitheater, largest one in the Balkans. My attention was also drawn to the famous concrete bunkers of dictator Enver Khoja. Although hundreds of thousands of them were built, only a few of them I were located during the journey.